Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance

Dura-Rubber – Flat Roof & Repairs

Torch down roofs: Waterproof primer required 

TPO roofs: No Primer required (Must be wiped down with Acetone just prior to application)

EPDM:  No Primer required (Must be wiped down with Acetone just prior to application)

Flat roofs fail first at the seams and penetrations. We can extend the life of the roof for many years by simply extending the life of the seams and penetrations and save money as well.

Applying fabric and product per application chart on all the seams penetrations, splits or cracks in the field, wall caps, and intersections with walls. you can extend the life of the roof 5 and even 10 years depending on the condition of the field. Just follow the simple directions below.

While you're on the roof the Dura-Rubber works great to protect and mechanical equipment from rust and UV go to the following links (HVAC Equipment coatings & Swamp Coolers in this chart)

SURFACE PREPARATION: 

Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface.

You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.

High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.

Caution: When spraying around the seams do not to get water under the membrane spray over the seam, not into it.

Caution: You do not want to trap water under the membrane or when you seam with the Dura-Rubber on hot days you will get very big rubber bubbles of steam.

Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with the application.

High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.

Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with the application. We recommend doing an adhesion test before the final application

It is required to apply a primer coat on flat roof applications.

Application rate: All-purpose primer is 200-250 sf per gallon.

The product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.

Repairing Seams in membrane or Other Mediums (up to 1/4" cracks or gaps)Repairs should be made with an application product per chart followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 6" in width, with 3" each direction from repair at all joints, seams, cracks, holes, penetrations in roof and any end seams. or areas of damage, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Application on PVC, EPDM, Build up and metal roofs should follow the same guidelines. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat If you elect to put a top coat on See: (Flat Roof Coating for topcoat instructions) Application Rate thickness determined by below

Application Rate: Dura-Rubber

Rates of Application are typical:

25 mils dry Coverage is about 40-50 sf per gallon.

Remember you are not applying the paint you are applying a liquid membrane.

* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.

Drying Times:

Drying times are typical:

Prep coat.

Brushed or Rolled Dura Rubber will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.

Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 1-2 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity.

Application Coat

"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times

You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof in about 8. If However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. if it is going to be totally submerged in water it needs to be totally vulcanized. The process of "Vulcanization" can take 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals until the vulcanization process is complete.

If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!

If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!

Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels

Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.

Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.

Applying above an RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended.  The coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.  

However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.

Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too

One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon.  

You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:

Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.